Care Sheet

White’s Tree Frogs make excellent pets. They are a great choice for beginners who have never owned a frog as they are easy to care for and not nearly as delicate as other types of frogs.  They are cute, friendly, and a little different than most types of pets.  White’s tree frog owners should focus on providing a calm, clean habitat. Stress can be harmful to white’s tree frogs. Try to keep your frog’s terrarium in a relatively quiet room.

One of the cool things about white’s tree frogs is that they don’t really mind humans too much and can be handled without freaking out. It is best to not handle them too much though. Also, don’t forget, they do like to jump. And will. Before handling your dumpys, rinse your hands thoroughly to avoid spreading germs to your frog. Don’t use soap prior to handling your white’s tree frog though, as soap can be harmful to its skin. After handling your frog, wash your hands thoroughly with soap. The toxins in a white’s tree frog’s skin can be harmful to humans.

Habitat

The best way to keep your white’s tree frog healthy is to provide the right habitat and feed it properly.  A poorly designed environment can cause unnecessary stress, while a filthy habitat can increase the risk of a frog ailment.  To avoid this, clean your frog’s cage about once a month and take the time to pick up its frog poops when you see them.  Always use a kleenex to pick up those poops.  In case you’re wondering, you will know them when you see them.  White’s tree frog poops are surprisingly big.

Your frog should have plenty of stuff to crawl on and hide behind.  Remember, your frog’s ancestors lived in the jungle.  See our habitat page for everything you’ll need for a your frog’s terrarium.

Water

The water in your frog’s dish should be changed daily if possible.  Clean water is key for your white’s tree frog.  You will either want to use a jug of Ozarka (or generic brand) spring or drinking water – not distilled.  If you would rather use tap water, keep it in a gallon jug and add about eight drops of Aquatize Conditioner to treat the water for your frog.  It will cost you about $6 and last you a very long time.

As with other types of tree frogs, white’s tree frogs also need the right level of humidity.  Keep a spray bottle nearby and mist the inside of your pet frog’s cage frequently (again, daily if possible).

Food

As far as food, white’s tree frogs eat crickets, mealworms, and sometimes pinkie mice.  Beware of o

verfeeding as your dumpy tree frog will get quite fat and be more prone to illness.  If the flap of skin over your tree frog’s eyes starts to fold over the eyes, it is time to cut back on the crickets a bit.

See our feeding page for more information on frog diet and videos of tree frogs enjoying various types of meals.

Adding Frogs to Your Terrarium

The question has been asked many times:  Can I keep my white’s tree frogs in a terrarium with other types of frogs?  The simple answer is no.  Frog breeds carry different levels of toxicity in their skin, meaning that sharing a common water bowl could kill either frog.  There is one type of frog with a comparable level of toxicity, but if you want multiple frogs your safest bet is to add additional dumpy tree frogs.

Be careful adding a very small white’s tree frog with an adult, as your adult may mistake the smaller frog for dinner.  Add only frogs of the same breed and similar size and you should be fine.

New Frog Checklist

Below are recommended products to provide your White’s Tree Frog with a comfortable habitat.  For detailed recommendations, please check out the habitat page.

• Terrarium – get your frog a minimum of a 10-gallon tank. Tree Frogs love to climb, so the taller your frog’s aquarium the better. Your tank should also have a secured, screen lid so your frog doesn’t climb out. As mentioned on the habitat page, my White’s Tree Frog lives in a Exo Terra Terrarium.
• T-Rex® Jungle Bed® Premium Blend Forest Substrate – stay away from gravel and pebbles. White’s Tree Frogs get a bit reckless when diving for prey, so the substrate should consist of a material that can be safely ingested.
• Clamp Lamp – keep the heat lamp on during the day, off at night
• Repti Glo 2.0 UVB Light Bulb – full spectrum light bulb for amphibians and reptiles
• Timer (optional) – an automatic timer can provide a consistent time for your frog to get up and go to sleep. Set it to go in 12-hour shifts – on during the day and off at night
• Thermometer – keep the aquarium at 70 to 85 degrees F
• Hygrometer – keep the aquarium humidity at 50% or more
• Water Dish – your frog’s pool should be shallow enough that the water does not go over its head. White’s Tree Frogs are not good swimmers. Water should be changed daily.
• Stuff to climb on – fake trees, half logs, moss, and vines all help create a comfortable environment.